Dear all,

Yes, we are still alive!

The last two months have been more than hectic. First we traveled to Uummannaq June 18th where we sailed around to all the settlements and visited a few cities on our way sailing south to Nuuk. The trip took 15 days and was packed with work, experiences and beautiful landscapes. When we arrived home we had to clean the old apartment and prepare to move to our premanent housing, which is a brand new 3-room apartment on the sixth floor with a south-west view for Akia (Nordlandet). We got all things from our apartment in Malmö on Tuesday July 6th. Then on Thursday Kristian’s mother, sister and brother arrived for a week’s visit. After they left Kristian’s father arrived to stay for 2,5 weeks until beginning of August. Now we are starting to get more into place in the apartment and is starting to enjoy it very much.

The next four days we are going for a sailing trip in our own boat to the northern part of the Nuuk fjord and then south along Akia.

We will publish some pictures and stories later. But right now our priority is to enjoy the short, but nice, Greenlandic summer.

Karolina & Kristian.

Uummannaq is properly most known in Denmark for the TV Christmas Calender “Nissebanden på Grønland”. Uummannaq is a city in greenland with 1300 inhabitants located approximately 500km north of the polar circle.

The trip to Uummannaq started Friday June 18th was traveled by planes from Nuuk to Kangerlussuaq to Aasiaat to Qaarsut and then finally 10 (amazing) minutes in a helicopter from Qaarsut to Uummannaq.

The rest of the journey will be done by ship, where we during the next two weeks will visit all the settlements with more than 50 inhabitants in the Uummannnaq district.

The helicopter that transported us from Qaarsut to Uummannaq.


The view from inside the helicopter. In front of us you can see the town of Uummannaq.


View at Uummannaq as we flew low around the tip of the city before landing.

The nice church of Uummannaq to the left and the siluet of the Uummannaq mountain in the background.

View behind the church towards the sea.

Uummannaq harbor.

Here there are no fancy bridges - only anchors and rope.

Friday after work.

Behind this house on the top of the mountains of the Nuussuaq peninsula you can see the edge of a glaicer.

Friday evening the mountains were covered in these fairy tale clouds.

View of the city in the midnight sun.

View of the city in day light.

A slade is resting until next winter.

This small house is build on a slade - and is properly the closest you can get to a caravan in this part of the world. The local hunters use the small huts in the winter to sleep in on the ice if caught in bad weather - or when traveling far on the ice for fishing.

Yet to be determined - but nice looking for sure! :-)

Yet to be determined - but nice looking for sure! :-)

Yet to be determined - but nice looking for sure! :-)

Yet to be determined - but nice looking for sure! :-)

View back towards the city when hiking to Santa's house.

Santa's hut at the bottom of the Uummannaq mountain.

Santa's hut. The last time Kristian saw this place is 20 years ago - on TV.

Santa is not so tall.

The view Santa has every morning. At winter times all the sea around here freezes totally, so he can ride on the slades (when Rudolf has a day off).

In the water you can see a stream of the Amasætter/Loddefisk.

You can fish the loddefisk by net and put them on the warm rocks for drying (with out any cleaning). It tastes really nice to eat ("raw") when dried in the sun.

Just another beautiful view not too far from Santa's hut.

These two piles of stones are old graves. When looking between the cracks human skulls and bones can be seen. It is an old tradition in Greenland to be buried at a place you like - and indeed this place was very nice.

The last view Uummannaq when leaving the harbor. The yellow house on the left in the picture is the local hospital.

The last view of cool icebergs before arriving at the Ikerasak settlement.

These three pictures is taken the 15th, 16th and 17th of June 2010 from the window in our apartment.

June 15th 23:50

June 16th 00:10

June 17th 23:20

Yesterday evening just when getting ready for bed a light mist came into Nuuk from the South. The sun was shining and this gave us this beautiful rainbow. We wonder of there is a treasure hidden somewhere on the other side.

Wednesday June 9th we left Nuuk at 5 in the morning heading for the settlement Atammik which is a relatively big settlement with around 200 inhabitants. Atammik is 85 km north of Nuuk and the sailing time (one way) took around 3,5 hours.

The first impression.

The man owning the green house must be a very successful hunter. We heard from locals that there are many reindeer around Atammik during the autumn and winter.

Fish for drying = food for winter.

Houses with nice colors as in Nuuk (or the other way around).

Kids playing outside in the morning.

The essence of the city. People outside. Laundry blowing in the wind. No sound.

Grønlandsk fjeldsimmer/Rypelyng (Dyras integrifolia).

Rosenrod (Rohdiola rosea). The green leafs are eatable.

Fjeld-hønsetarm (Cerastium alpinum) growing in a crack of a rock.

Inside the church.

On the way out of the church we saw this locked door... with the key hanging on the coat rack right next to it. We guess they do not have much theft here.

A bridge leading over a small cleft in the main street. It did not feel unstable to walk on despite of the appearance.

The elderly home of Atammik. Perhaps the nicest looking house in the city.

Fish for drying outside the elderly home.

To the left we have the water supply. The houses do not have running water - but it can be picked up in plastic containers here. In the middle the main street (yes, there are no cars!) and to the right in the yellow building is the health care clinic.

Because there is no water in the houses (and no sewage) there are no “normal” toilets. Instead “bag-toilets” are used. That is like a normal toilet but where everything just goes into a bag, which a lucky person gets to pick up from all the houses once in a while.

The harbor is not very large. There are two bridges, where this one is the most busy. There are only small "bathtubs" for fishing - no boats for leisure.

Atammik seen from above from a little cliff. Ninety percent of the city is in this picture. In the background in the right of the pictures you can see a few of the hundreds and hundreds of small rocky islands on the coast appearing from the mist.

The last glimpse of Atammik from the sea side as we sailed out of the small natural harbor. Notice how different this picture is to the previous in regard to the light and the color of the sky. The time difference between the two pictures is less than one hour only.

Sailing between the rocks require skills, good navigation and local knowledge. The safe sailing route is marked at some points as a guide (like the ones used for hiking). Here you can see a narrow passage which is marked.

It is difficult getting a good picture of misty clouds as they roll over and between the mountains, however this picture can give an idea idea of how it looks in reality.

The Sermitsiaq moutain - the landmark of Nuuk (in the left on the picture). From long distance at sea you can really tell why this particular mountain is associated with Nuuk (which is in the middle of the picture).

We arrived in Nuuk a bit after 19 in the evening after a very nice and interesting day!

Evening view from the bedroom windows before passing out after a exciting and a bit long day.

Saturday evening we went for a small fishing trip to the Præstefjord which a very small fjord 30 miles away in the opening of the Ameralik fjord. It was a nice place to go because the bottom of the fjord has a narrow entrance which makes the place very well protected from wind and waves.

In Nuuk it was a bit misty and cloudy but in the fjord it was calm water, the sun was shining and it was quite warm. A absolutely OK place to have the evening coffee!

The bottom of the Præstefjord.

On the way home we were fishing for half an hour behind the Dog Island - without any luck though. But it did not matter - we were just enjoying he sunset.

We ended up – as many times before – spending many more hours at sea than we thought we would. We came home at midnight thinking it was nine o clock because the sun was shining so strong. Even though there are no midnight-sun here in Nuuk it is really amazing how much energy the sun gives the body and mind. It is light 24 hours a day now – and even though we went to bed around 1.30 we still stand 15 minutes looking out the window in our bedroom thinking about the next time we go out sailing.

Warning: Greenland is addictive!

This Saturday we decided to go the Kobbefjord to go for an evening walk. We spend most of the day relaxing and preparing nice food for the trip even thought the Kobberfjord is just around the corner behind the mountains we can see from our windows. The total sailing trip is not much longer than an hour.

Saturday evening around 21.30. It was really misty, as you can see, but never the less we had a very nice three hour hike.

Krybelyng (Loiseleuria procumbens) blossom during June and July and the early appearance witness the warm Spring this year.

Karolina besides the lake that supplies the main river. This lake is supplied by a number of small streams and waterfalls rushing down the vertical mountain walls. One of the streams comes from a small glacier that lie between the mountain tops.

Closeup of the glacier - you can see the small stream coming out under it.

The big lake with a view of one of the smaller mountain lakes behind and the glacier in the top right of the picture.

When we came back to the boat it was 1 in the morning and we decided to stay for the night. The following morning after breakfast we wanted to go for a short walk on the shore to see a waterfall a bit further away from the boat. The short walk lasted more than six hours and included quite a bit of climbing. Again the clear air and visibility cheated our brains.

Kristian (Homo sapiens) just ashore after securing the rubber boat. You can see our motor boat on the picture as a small white dot on the waterline in the horizon.

A male Laplandsværling (Calcarius lapponicus) was singing nicely for us on the walk to the waterfall. It is one of the four most common small birds in Greenland. It arrives in Greenland during March-May and leaves some time during August-October.

When we finally came to the small waterfall it did not seem so small. In the bottom right corner you can see Karolina for reference for the height.

Karolina in a view towards the bottom of the fjord. Taken from ca. 200 meters height.

The silver-like mountain behind Kristian is the backside of Store Marlene - one of the mountains we can see from home.

After walking down to he beach we found a few good places for common mussels and picked 4kg. Some of them we cooked at the boat (in sea water of course).

The waterfall seen from the boat when going home. It seems insignificant from this distance - but it is not.

That was it. A small evening trip became a whole weekend with many really nice experiences - just around the corner.

The first view of the new day.

Saturday May 22nd, the day before Whitsun, we had decided to sail out to the abandoned settlement Qooqqut, which is a little less than 3o nautical miles (50 km) away.

We left Nuuk at 21.10 in this beautiful sunset. On the half way we saw something black moving close to a small iceberg, and our first thought was that it might be a seal. It was not. It was two big humpback whales swimming around. We followed them (or the other way around) into the fjord for about 20 minutes before we split in different directions. It was astonishing to see these big creatures move in the water, see their breath blowing a big cloud of water meters up in the air and see the tail wave at us.

This picture is from 5 in the morning and the sun (which has been up for some hours) if starting to glow behind the mountains. It almost felt like a crime to be peeing out of the boat to a sight like this. Mother Sea did not seem to mind though.

It was a fun experience to sleep on the boat. The weather was very calm and we could hear the gentle waves licking the side of the boat making a cozy sound like a tiny river. It is a bit cold sleeping on the boat because you are so close the the water but with two sleeping backs and starting the heating in the morning it went more than fine and we will definitely do it again.

Leaving our anchoring place in the morning. It is difficult to see on the picture but the land forms a nice small natural harbor, where the boat is protected to some extend from waves and wind. There were some small summer houses near the natural harbor.

Karolina sailing to the abandoned settlement Qooqqut.

We were not the only ones finding this place attractive, but even though there was other boats and a few summer houses we only saw people many kilometers away. We anchored up on 7 meters of water and here we had just put the rubber boat in the water and Kristian is mounting the engine.

We walked up a "small" hill of one of the mountains. Or rather it seemed small from below. Here we are half way.

A zoomed view down towards the main river. You can see a few summer houses on the picture and a simple bridge, which you have to be quite alert when passing.

The mountain water in Greenland is the purest in the world. It is clear, ice cold and tastes really nice.

The river seems small on the pictures, but there is actually a lot of water in it.

We ended getting about 600 meters above the water surface (half way to the summit) and the hike took us more than two hours due to it being steep and rocky with lots of bushes and small water streams. To get to the summit you need to be a very skilled climber in order to pass the perpendicular rocky walls. It is impressive to see so much land just going on and on; with no people, just more mountains.

When we left the rubber boat before noon it was 5-6 meters away from the water. When we came back the water was high and we did not need much efford to get it into the sea. The rubber boat seems quite small, but actually it is approved to carry 350 kg and it is quite heavy because the floor is made of wood.

After getting back to the boat we could see many hundreds of fish swimming under us. It only took 1 minute to get these three guys hooked. You can see the shadows of other fish in the bottom of the picture.

A happy fisherman. We stopped when we had caught 15-20 kg of cod. It was tempting to keep fishing, but when we were home at 1 in the night Kristian was quite happy there was not even more to fillet.

Leaving Qooqqut and Karolina enjoying the view in front of the boat while sailing pass the few houses left at the settlement.

The landscape was incredibly beautiful on the way home to Nuuk. If you like this picture you would indeed have liked the real scenery. It was spectacular! Notice how steep the mountains are. The peak on the right in the picture is about 1,3 km high. That does not seem of so much, but it is, when it is a perpendicular wall of bare rock raising from the water surface.

Another view of the landscape on the way home. This picture is taken at around 22.

Near Nuuk we see the Sermitsiaq mountain, that we have been writing about before. This time featuring an UFO disguised in a cloud. If you look close you can even see the landing gear/place where they "beam up" people.

Home and very tired after a long day. The view is from our apartment towards Sermitsiaq at 01.00.

We came home to a pursing Isa, who was very, very, very interested in the fishes. And yes, he had more samples than he could eat. We were not ready to bed until after 3 and felt asleep feeling a bit more than exhausted. Even thought the trip only had been a bit more than a day it felt like a week and our minds are so full of experiences that it feels a bit flat writing about it. We hope you enjoyed the pictures though!

This letter from Greenland contains a lot of pictures. We have spent most of the last week in Ilulissat, the third largest city of Greenland. The city has 4500 inhabitants with two legs and more than 6000 inhabitants with four legs. The trip has been a mixture of work and pleasure, and both things have been extremely interesting.

Ilulissat city and surroundings offers so many nice views and experiences, that we feel a need to show you some of the 1.200 pictures we have managed to shoot while we have been there.

A view of Ilulissat Hospital. Not a bad place for recreation.

Also at least one bird family in Ilulissat has nice housing.

Slade dogs on the chain. They are outside all year around and they like it. They are not used to being pet by humans. They are working animals, that seldom live past 6 years of age. Even though they look big on the picture, they are actually smaller than a German Shepherd. In the summer time some of the dogs are set free on small islands in the fjord, where they can walk around and play without being bound.

Feeding time. The dogs have an idea that the one who barks most during feeding time get more food. So they bark a lot.

The Greenlandic people like colors, as you can see. It is a nice contrast to the (a bit boring) Danish taste of colors, and it makes it easy to explain the address to the taxi drivers, when having trouble to pronounce the Greenlandic street names – and because of the size of the city a sentence like “The green house on the hill” makes perfectly sense and everyone knows where it is.

A nice evening view towards west with the old wooden church on the left and one of the hospitals buildings in the right.

Evening walk toward the mouth of the ice fjord. Notice the color of the ice – it is almost orange-pink, as if it was on fire. Astonishing. It was difficult to get into the mind – and to understand the masses of ice we were standing in front of the first time we saw this.

Karolina enjoying the view of me taking a picture.

Greenlandic coffee. The liquid the waiter is pouring at this picture is burning Grand Manier – which gives a nice glow like polar light when made in darkness. The rest of the drink is whisky and Kahlua (representing the sea floor), then added coffee (giving us the dark sea), cream on the top (icebergs) – and then the polar light at the end. A joy for the eye and mouth.

Friday after work… judge for your self.

We were sailing for two hours across the mouth of the icefjord with an old fishing boat. The sight was spectacular.

The water in Greenland is very, very clear. On this picture you can have a glimpse of the magnitude of the under-water part of an iceberg, which is 6/7.

Icebergs.

There was a lot of ice floating outside the icefjord. As you can see some of the lumps are not small at all, so it requires good skills from the captain to sail in these waters.

More icebergs.

This iceberg may seem small on the picture – but the length of the side you can see is more than 600 meters, with a hight over the water line around 50 meters.

More ice.

More ice. When pieces like this falls into the water it can create 10 meter high waves.

More ice.

Hunting polar bears is illegal, but shooting in self-defense is a necessity as a last option, so this guy properly got too close to humans and is now hanging out here while drying. The air humidity in Ilulissat is only around 30%, so everything (being bear, fish, lips or laundry) dries very fast.

Second walk to the icefjord. This time we were more able to absorb the impressions and enjoy it.

Also from the ice fjord – a look towards the glacier, that is 6 km away. The ice in the fjord spend up to two years from it is born to it reaches the open sea.

The icebergs are travelling North when they exit the fjord, and then in the top of the Disco Bay they change direction and travel South to Davids Strait and Canada.

20.000.000 tonnes of ice is produced every day – that is enough to supply New York City with clean water for a year. This is though only 10% of the amount of icebergs floating in the sea around Greenland. Some of the icebergs on this picture is more than 100 meters tall.

In the distance you can see the Disco Island clearly. It is around 85 km away. It is not many places in the world you are able to see so far. The clear air makes it very difficult to judge distances.

We spend the whole Saturday hiking around the cliffs and paths around the city near the icefjord. The whole area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This puppy was very nice and followed us a bit of the way home after our hiking trip.

Arctic only street sign.

Sunday we were at a two hour dog slade trip on the very last remains of snow. Here we are passing an other guy that was on the way home to the city.

Hurray for global waming. It was very, very wet, but the dogs did not seem to mind, and the slade moved fast, when they pulled all together. It was somewhat of a bumpy ride though.

Karolina and 15 dogs.

Also from the dog slade. As you can see we have managed to catch a little (too much) of the strong arctic sun this weekend.

After we had been droped off the driver jumped on to his slade, and said “AP AP” the the dogs, and then they took off – on the asphalt.

Our last sunset for visit in Ilulissat – with the setting sun, the icebergs floating and the shadows of the Disco Island. Beautiful.